Dave coming down in 3 more weeks and he's bringing me a wetsuit
in the winter months it's going to be even bigger, but the water obv gets colder
I did live in Hawaii for 6 years and I'm a very capable swimmer and an accomplished boogie boarder.
Used to ride 8-10 footers in Hilo and North Shore, Oahu back in the 90's
oh wait, that was over 20 years ago....I guess I may have 'aged' just a little bit
but no way I am going to pass on huge barrels if they are right outside my front door
the great part of the beach here, is that there is no coral reef. It's a sandy bottom....so at least if you get pitched over the top or wipe out badly, you're just gonna get rolled around in the whitewash...not slammed into the reef




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